BBQ, Vermont "High-Country" Style

MJ’s in South Royalton is Finger Lickin’ Perfection!

Want some stellar barbecue? This is the new hot spot on the fringes of the Upper Valley in Vermont. Situated in South Royalton on Route 14 between SoRo village and Bethel, it’s worth a trip from just about anywhere.

In what I remember as the beautiful brick Foxstand Inn building, MJ’s is now operating from the kitchen space within Roma’s Butchery—which, by the way, just so happens to have the best steaks, ground burger meat, and sausages this side of, hmmmm, maybe just about anywhere. It’s the women-owned and operated butchery that’s taken the gastro-universe of carnivores around these parts by storm. According to owner Elizabeth Roma: “My goal is to create a butcher shop that feeds our community fresh, local meat. Our farmers do a beautiful job raising high-quality livestock, and our team has the privilege of taking it to the next level.” With a high bar like Roma’s as its foundation, it’s no wonder MJ’s serves up my kind of meal.

The view of Roma’s Butchery and, now, MJ’s Barbecue building coming from South Royalton Village on Route 14.

Take either Exit 2 or 3 off of Interstate 89 to get to Route 14 and follow the cars. Today, at 2 pm, the lot was filled. It seems that within a handful of weeks of its soft opening, MJ’s has quickly become known for a true and robust barbecue experience. I find the slight smokey tang of the sauce here reminds me of a Texas rodeo style smokiness meets Memphis mouth-watering magic meets Kansas City burnt ends of tantalizingly tender brisket cooked lovingly and to perfection. It’s not a sweet sauce, but it has hints of, maybe maple?, behind it. Yet, it’s not a full on maple flavor. It’s got southern flare, but with a decidedly northern accent. I’m going to call it “Vermont High-Country Barbecue” to distinguish it from Carolina low-country food. It’s delish.

I ordered the pulled pork sandwich and fries today. MJ’s fries are cooked in real beef tallow with a slight saltiness that doesn’t overwhelm, and just enough crunch to offer a satisfying mouth feel. Al dente, if it was a pasta served up bolognese style in the heart of Italy. Though the view from the back deck conjures up a country space and a slow-paced life, this is Vermont, make no mistake about it. I’ve previously enjoyed the pulled pork sammy with MJ’s crispy coleslaw. It’s my third time here and it keeps getting better. My partner, not a fan of barbecue by her own admission, fell head-over-heels for the bbq sliced brisket sandwich a few weekends back.

My pulled pork sandwich with fries served up in a recyclable paper “clamshell” serving tray that made me smile. Note: ask for ketchup in you want it. And ask for extra bbq sauce, if that’s your pleasure.

I’ll wrap up this article with a handful of photos to follow, along with some quick notes to let you know:

• MJ’s is open Sundays and Mondays, noon - 7 pm

• The two chef co-owners hope to extend business hours to Sat - Mon soonish. Check MJ’s Facebook page here for the latest info.

• Their buns, oh their buns, are baked in-house to perfection. These aren’t the flimsy, mushy buns that bleed through with sauce and juice to make a mess of a meal, but buns to celebrate that are just the right density to absorb glimmering juices and MJ’s special in-house-made bbq sauce for a delightful eating experience. MJ’s buns are also sold in Roma’s Butchery if you fall in love with them like I have.

• The chefs expect to sell their barbecue sauce soon, but don’t wait until then to get yourself some mouth-watering MJ’s Barbecue on a bun to taste it for yourself. I’m smitten.

• I was told the brisket pizza was extaordinary by a group of three women hunched over their plates barely able to look up at me as I unceremoniously asked them to speak rather than eat!

• Based on what I learned from the host, things got a bit backed up today because the chefs kept the brisket cooking until it was to their liking. “No food before its time”, serves as a mantra I can get behind. With this kind of exacting gustatory direction, it’s no wonder the food is so delicious.

• No need for a napkin once I was done licking my fingers after picking up the last bits of crunchy fries and a few pieces of pulled pork that had fallen to the bottom of the plate. Yummm!

Now for some photos to close this out. Make tracks to MJ’s. They’re open until 7 pm today. Then again next Sunday and Monday. What are you waiting for?

A view of the back deck from the interior dining room. Diners were loving the great food on a sunny day after all the Spring rain!

A view of the old hearth and former Fox Stand Inn sign in what’s now an informal dining room space. I like to bring my own water, soda, or juice.

Brisket pizza on the left, barbecue sandwiches and slaw on the right. Two tables of happy people lunching and enjoying a Sunday afternoon meal at MJ’s.

Some porcine whimsy comes side-by side with history and the salt and pepper that add a smile to every meal.

Not to be forgotten, here’s a peek inside Roma’s Butchery, where beautiful cuts of beef, pork, lamb, and sausage that’s lovingly ground and flavored await.

A final, close-up look at MJ’s menu. Next up, I’ll try a burger, then maybe a pizza, but only if I can persuade my taste buds to forgo the best barbecue sauce I’ve had in many years. How to say “no” to anything on the menu is a tall order I’m trying to wrap my hunger around..

Dave Celone writes from Sharon, VT. He’s vice president of alumni relations and development at Vermont Law and Graduate School, from which he graduated a number of years back. And, you guessed it, he loves good food thanks to his immigrant grandparents who hailed from southern Italy.